30kw 34s 144v: WiFi, BLE, iOS support, GPS/LTE Options

The connector design is changed to allow for easy connect/disconnect. Much progress is made with the phone application development, including online logging directly from the phone app. 

Connectivity package (GPS+GSM/LTE) with 3 years of service in 70 countries is now available as an option on new controllers.

See updates and pictures here on the first page of this tread: https://vesc-project.com/node/1477

Looking for testers that are properly set up to test the controller design up 30kw. Ideally, at voltages up to 134v and currents up to 400A.

I can only load it up to 10kw with my current setup and I'd like to validate higher power levels.

You'd need have the right battery, motor and the way to load it, as well as experience setting up hardware running vesc firmware. 

PM me if you have the proper setup, knowledge, and motivation to run the tests and provide me feedback.

Due to component supply constraints, I can only produce a limited number of units, therefore, I am looking for experienced testers only to validate the design.

I have a couple of controllers in stock available for immediate shipping. PM for details.

Seems like no trouble running an axial flux motor. Here is some test:

Considering offering 100v and 200v version of the controller (in addition to the 150v). The 100v version should be capable of 500A phase, and the 200V obviously higher voltage and likely up to 300A.

Any interest? Would like to hear some thoughts.

My simple smoke test for any controller (without actually smoking it) is to check the claimed specs against the specs of the parts used inside and how that controller is made. The test is oversimplified but it provides a basic idea of how far the claimed specs are from the reality.

Let's say a controller is using 24x IRFP4321 or four per phase which is what's likely would be used on a controller with To-247 packaged 150v rated mosfets.

https://www.infineon.com/dgdl/irfp4321pbf.pdf?fileId=5546d462533600a4015...

The datasheet (that tends to be always over optimistic) tells us that the continued drain per mosfet at 25C is 78A. So, 78 x 4 = 312A. That means provided the mosfets temperature can be maintained at 25C (impossible with passive cooling and in standard ambient temperature), the mosfets would be good for up 312A load of DC/non-switched load under perfect conditions. Switching adds another layer of losses warranting additional current derating bringing it to 250A at best. It doesn't mean you can't push it for a couple of seconds a few times and then wait until the temperature goes down but this is far from continuous and well above the safe specs for the mosfets (aka compromised reliability).

Yes. Any questions, comments?

Just an update:

Onboard contactor/precharge circuits are now available on NextGen controllers. No more sparky and safe battery disconnect is on board.

Another update:

IMU is now included on board.

There is something going on with the current sensing circuits. You need to be able to measure the current in both directions. I recommend you take one of the reference schematics from the Documentation section on this site and replicate without much change. To validate BEMF and current signals, you also want to use check the Sampled data while attempting to spin the motor by hand or with battery power. It may appear the motor passes detection but the values may not be correct. You want to post more relevant details such as your motor detected values.  

Yes, controllers are available. 

Your detected FOC values are clearly not valid. The resistance, inductance, and flux values in thousand range are not real. Definitely an issue with current sensing at the very least but likely other problems with the design. Are you able to spin the motor in open loop?

Unbalanced currents normally mean your current sensor readings from three phases in idle are not somewhat the same or close. Per your screenshot, it seems like your phase 2 and 3 are swinging in the range of +/- 0.125A. I assume it's at idle (no PWM signals on phases) or no? And phase 1 is sitting at about 0.05A or so and doesn't move much. At idle, all phase currents should be somewhere close to zero, a slight differences are ok. when you apply PWM signal, all three phase current should be swinging around zero. If your screenshots show a running motor, then your phase 1/green is not working. I can't tell from your screenshots if they are at idle or you attempt to spin the motor.  

Lots of things that can go wrong. One thing is that a three phase driver on one chip is hard to route in a symmetrical way, and that's what you want to achieve for proper operation of three phases. However, it's probably not the driver that's bad, it's how it's used in the current design. Drivers will normally fry if there is a problem with how they are powered and/or connected to the mosfet gates. The green phase not moving means either it's not powered by the driver or it's powered but current is not correctly sensed (or both).