Hi could you recommend me a button to control power between vesc and battery?
I connect the battery and vesc with xt60 jack, however I think it is not convenient disconnect jacks.
Could you recommend me the power button for this, I tried few buttons but all of them are not suitable ( after turn-on they are welding with noise and spark and push on button don't make turn-off because of weld).
You will need an anti spark switch. Google "Vedder anti spark switch". It's a MOSFET switch. I would rather use a loop key (safety cutoff) for two reasons: Cheap and safe.
Anti spark switches can fail and then you will have no chance to disconnect the power in an emergency situation. So you want the loop key anyway and it is also good to de-power your board.
You can make a loop key from an XT90/XT90S connector.
please refer to the wiring diagram shown here:
http://www.vesc-project.com/node/180 (single VESC)
or here http://www.vesc-project.com/node/182 (twin VESC)
Frank
Great manual.
Thank you for updating the Documentation section of the website.
Just to add some information. For an e-scooter project (36V) I made a drill in a section of the PCB in which the HI-side mosfets drain connects to a track which goes into 3 layers and finally goes to the DRV8302 input (PVDD1) and also to Buck converter (2 x PVDD2). With this modification the power wires can be allways connected to the battery (with 0 consumption) and I can connect VCC to DRV8302 with a small switch.
I also have being tests with the direct activation (applying VCC directly to DRV8302), as in the specs it is stated that max power ramp is 50V / ms, and it seems it is safe upto 40V when doing a direct activation. Of course there are no sparks as the power cables are permanently connected, but I don't want to go further because I already burnt 2 or 3 VESCs in the latest years.
To summarize: no need of a powerful switch as power cables are permanently connected. There is no spark (or it happens only once when DRV8302 is OFF), and it is safe at least upto 40V when powering the DRV8302 with a small switch (a key switch in this case)
@e-nduro: Do you test the PVDD supply on a VESC6 or 4.12 hardware ? Do you think you burnt some VESC as a result of this mod or for some other reason ?
I plan to do the same for a Flipsky 4.12 compatible hardware - Drilling the vias shown here: http://omegawatt.fr/paille/vesc_hvmod.JPG
I plan to use 12s battery and I hope a 100R series resistor to power PVDD will help achieve enough rise time for the DRV8302 to be happy (there is a 4.7uF on the board, will boost it to 100uF)
With 100R, I think the PVVD voltage remains high enough to drive the FETs. And presumably will avoid possible DRV failures upon overvoltage from FETs spikes.
I've got a robotics project, using vescs. To avoid the spark, I'm thinking of using a solid state relay driven by microcontroller to switch on the main Vbat feed to the vescs (labelled drive_enable or something) and running a secondary cap charge circuit in parallel with a fet and resistor, to charge the caps before turning the SSR on. anyone used a setup like this before? is it overkill? I thought this way I can have all my logic and low power stuff on all the time in a standby mode and power it up with remote. Also a nice failsafe drive cut.
I burnt several VESCs as a cause of applying 50V to the input. First time I didn't know the problem, second and third time I was using a pre-charge resistor and something failed (I think 3rd time was a damaged AMASS connector).
This modification works from 47R ohm 1/4 W resistor in series from the FET power to DRV power. I was investigating DRV83xx and my conclusion is that it was designed for applications below 40V (36V is quite common on ebikes and small motors), and even it can handle 60V it has lots of problems if voltage rises faster in less than 1 ms as you know (which is a extreme slow time)
regarding using additional FETs the question is why? all chinese controllers have a "thick" wire for capacitors and FETs and a thin wire for control and they can be powered directly to battery, even if the spark happens. This mod: just putting a 47 ohm resistor in series makes this possible. Why I should use more parts when I already can power on/off the control through this line?